IS MY SEPTIC SYSTEM BEYOND ITS USEFUL LIFE?
Many people ask the same question – how long should my septic system last? The short answer is 20 years or more, but obviously many systems fail before that, and many last significantly longer. So why is that? To answer that, we must look at the three components that comprise the system; the tank itself, the disposal field, and the zone of treatment.
The tank is the easy one. These are typically pre-cast concrete tanks and will last for decades. New codes require that the tanks have two compartments, and perhaps more protection of the outlet pipe (i.e. gas baffles, filters, etc.), and the manholes now have to be locking, but generally they’re the same approach since the dawn of time; inflow pipe, digestion chamber (1000 gal. is the typical size), and outflow pipe. Unless you have significant settling or had severe heavy equipment roll over the tank itself, generally they don’t leak or fail, unless they were compromised on the outset of construction. (The exception would be older “tanks” constructed out of masonry block. And these are typically cesspools, not tanks, and would therefore not be up to code anyway). Having the tank pumped out periodically is the best maintenance for your septic tank. How often? Please refer to the earlier blog entitled “My Septic Tank Has Fallen and It Can’t Get Up!” for a deeper answer. When the tank is pumped out, this is the opportunity to inspect for proper function. Make sure the compartment wall orifice is not deteriorated or clogged. Make sure the gas baffles have not fallen apart. Ensure the pump “floaters” are physically working properly (if you have a non-gravity system), and check that the filter is clean and functional. The pump-out service technician is the individual likely to spot these things since he sees 10 of them a day. Ask questions! It will save you the cost of a full-blown inspection.
Next would be the disposal field and I consider the distribution box part of this component. Here now, age can become a factor because this system is comprised of 4”-6” pipes which can crack, settle, merely rot, or become clogged for various reasons. The distribution box is typically shallower than the tank, and is thinner walled concrete; it is easier to get damaged due to surface activity. It is crucial that the D-box remain level in order to perform what its name implies – distribute the effluent evenly to the leach pipes. Over time the ground can settle, therefore a periodic inspection to ensure equal dispersement to all laterals must be performed. If it’s out of level, inserts can be installed to facilitate same; these are called speed levelers and are cheap, fast and easy to install.
If the D-box is full of effluent, chances are that you need a formal inspection, which should include advancing a camera into the network to determine where the problem is. Partial excavation may also be necessary. BE ADVISED, should you need to perform any digging or exposure to the system, it is likely that a permit from the local Health Department will be necessary. DO NOT try to avoid this; if you do and are “caught,” you risk fines AND a cranky health inspector who also has to review and approve all of your plans going forward. Do not irritate this individual. Be that as it may, the problem could be physical in nature, like a crushed/clogged lateral pipe, or one not so simple (or cheap). This would be problems with the last component of your system, the Zone of Treatment.